For Other People’s Weddings, Round 2: Papercut Patterns Midsummer Night’s Dream the Second

All right. Wedding season is upon us (well, those of us who are between the ages of 26 and 35) and I have more than I was expecting. Which is great! And which also means it’s dress-making time.

midsummer8 midsummer7 midsummer1Last year I made this Paper cut Patterns Midsummer Night’s Dream dress and I really liked wearing it, apart from that fact that I didn’t leave myself a hole through which to pass the wrap tie in one side. (Stupid).

My other mistake on that one was that I didn’t underline the bodice of the delicate silk charmeuse. It’s asking quite a lot of that fabric to have it hold up the skirt all on its own.

But this one. Better!
The fabric is quite strange. It was a rayon-silk challis on Fabric Mart’s site. I don’t remember how it felt pre washed, but it has a similar drape and hand to a jersey knit. In my mind’s eye the yellow was a bit more neon pre washing, but that could just be a trick of memory.
The hand and drape mean that lining it was an absolute necessity. I used this rayon crepe that is originally bought for making dry runs of white blouses. It worked out just fine — it’s thin but the fibers are a bit crisp, if that makes sense, so the dress is no longer clingy/obscene.
midsummer5
For construction:
::  I finished the bodice seams using the bias tape left over from making the dress straps. This — or using a serger is necessary, since you leave that hole for the tie to pass through. Still, I should have used hug snug, or bias tape from thinner fabric because there was a bit too much heft to these seams. It works okay, but in an ideal world would have been a bit different.
:: I attached the skirt to the bodice with one long french seam. This, and the bodice seam are visible here. Neither flawlessly executed but can’t win em all:
midsummer 11
In terms of modifications to the pattern, I just used the pattern pieces I had made last year. That included:

:: lowered the back neck a full inch.

:: lowered the front peaks a full inch.

:: reduced the bodice length by half an inch (in hindsight, a bad idea given the inches I’d already taken off its length).

:: increased the armhole height half an inch on side front and back bodices, and smoothed the armhole curves to account for all the changes.

:: straight up copied A Handmade Wardrobe and tacked down the strap on each end to create a double strap rather than that silly looking bow. Multiple bows look ridiculous on grown-ass women, especially short ones.

:: measured the excess of material/gaping at the side boob. Again, from AHW: sewed basting stitches and then gathered the material to reduce the length by the 2 inches of gaping I had.

:: I hemmed the dress by 2″. Last year, that made the skirt too short, but this is evidently a study in fabric weight and bias growth, because the length is great here. The skirt was pinned to my dress form for about a week and seems to have grown a decent amount.

Something about the bodice back still bothers me a bit. The back waist seam pops up over where the ties settle, but maybe that has to do with where my waist is on my body? Who knows.

midsummer4

And that’s it! It’s a dress!

midsummer2

11 Comments

    1. Thanks, Linda. I feel like most of my challenges are on fit. Since I’d already been through that once with this dress, this iteration wasn’t so bad. The fabric was also pretty agreeable once it was all cut out!

      1. Yellow isn’t really something you may want a lot of in your wardrobe (unless you’re my old yoga teacher who I only ever saw wearing all yellow), but I think a little bit adds a splash of sunshine.

  1. This is a lovely dress, the yellow is so cheery! New to blogging, returning to sewing so I appreciate your willingness to share your fails….will undoubtedly have some of my own. Found your blog through SunnygalStudio and now a follower, it’s a great read.

  2. Hiya! I’m making this dress at the moment, and feel like the answers probably so obvious but I have left an opening on one side for the one tie to go through but I don’t understand how the other tie is supposed to wrap around the body to tie into a nice even bow?!

    1. Hey! Great I’d love to see how it looks. So, one side overlaps the other, right? The tie attached to the underlap (is that a word?) side will pass through the hole. The tie attached to the overlap side just goes over the opposite side seam (the one without the hole). You pull them to your back first, cross them, and then keep pulling around to your front, where you tie the bow. Make sense?

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