Here we have a quality Christmas (and other cold times of year) sweater.
It’s the Talvikki sweater from Named Patterns and I think it’s great. But it’s the sweater that almost wasn’t.
Because only when I finished pressing the turtleneck collar facing down inside the sweater and try it on did I realize that the opening wasn’t big enough for my massive head.
It was some slapstick comedic gold, with my hands inside the armholes and the neck just sitting at the top of my head. No one around to see, so no photos.
Let’s back up. The latest Named collection is pretty awesome, and I may have bought one or two or too many of the patterns. I’d been loving on this sweater fabric on the Emma One Sock site (still available, actually) for a while. I kept myself from buying either for a bit and can’t remember what broke me in the end, but the combination was burning a hole in my stash.
Straight out of the package I traced off a size small (38/40 Euro size).
Because Named is made for 5’8” ladies and I’m 5’3”, I folded out an inch at the bust line, and another inch immediately above the waist line.
These are big billowy sleeves that attach below the bust line, so the arc of the arm hole needed to be shortened as well (one inch below the back and front notches, since the bust line is below the notches on the bodice pieces). Make sense? Like so:
I also did a 3” (1.5” each side) full bust adjustment to the front to try to avoid too much tenting at the shorter hem. I feel like it was worth the minimal effort required by this simple method.
Anyway, I followed the instructions from there, everything went together well. I assembled everything on my serger, except for the hems. It’s so roomy and the fabric doesn’t ravel, so I felt comfortable using a straight stitch for that part.
So this was a very simple make. Until I tried to put the thing on and couldn’t get it over my head, of course.
In the end, my solution was to increase the seam allowance where the collar facing meets the top of the collar. The neck is slightly funneled, so it’s wider at the base than the top. By increasing the seam allowance, I was getting to a point at which the circumference was wider and I could shove my big head through. It means the collar isn’t quite as tall, but it also means I can wear it, so I’ll take it.
I’ve had this problem before, with the Style Arc Esme top, and that was the solution there as well.
And then I wore that thing to Christmas.
Here’s a parting shot to demonstrate that it does look cuter with the sleeves rolled up rather than rolled down.
1. If you like the aesthetic but wanted to tone down the drama of this top, you could extend the front piece an inch or so to bring it just a bit more in line with the bottom portion. I like the length in the back, but if I were to make it again, I would lower the front hem about 1”, and then I’d continue the side seams about two inches lower than where these stop. But that’s just me.
2. The wool is much itchier on my skin than I had been expecting. Is there anything you can do to wool to soften it? I steam shrunk this in in the dryer a few times to pre-treat, but any other advice? Euclan? Something else, preferably a bit on the crunchy side?
ALSO. A VERY EXCITING THING happened the other week when one of my handmade garments — specifically, this Schnittchen Coco Jacket — made it into the New York Times.
I mean, there is a photo of it in the Times, but only because I was standing in someone’s wide shot. This is a story about Rex Tillerson and not sewing. I’m sideways to the camera and you can see nothing of the rad floral stretch silk charmeuse lining, but I’m going to count it.